"There are no keys at Drakesbad,"

says Billie, our hostess, while introducing us to the lay of the land. "We're on the honor system." This applies to everything from the sodas and beer in the ice buckets to the items in the concession store. Candy bars, sweatshirts, and books about the history of Drakesbad - you sign your name and room number on the roster and settle up upon your departure.

	Click Photo for Drakesbad

Not that you'd be in any hurry to leave Drakesbad Ranch. The guests that have visited year after year for generations know that Drakesbad is a place you'll want to spend some time.

It's not easy to get to Drakesbad, but that's part of what makes it so worthwhile. Hidden in the southern side of California's Lassen Volcanic National Park, the ranch is accessible only by a narrow country road that winds over three one lane bridges before losing its pavement before turning up a gravel track. The last few miles are unpaved, but easily navigable by careful drivers. Nope, no need for four wheel drive.

We arrived in time for lunch and dined on a buffet of fresh salads and deli fixings. Meals are included with the price of your stay. The staff understands that you might want to spend the day hiking in the surrounding splendor; they will pack a sack lunch for you if you sign up the night before. The kitchen is happy to accommodate any special dietary needs if you let them know before arrival.

After dining al fresco in the afternoon sunshine, we headed out to Devil's Kitchen. The lodge sits on the edge of an expansive meadow frequented by dragonflies, mule deer, and red winged blackbirds, to name just a few of the remarkable denizens. We crossed the meadow to the forest and hiked up a moderately easy trail shared with horseback riders. (The ranch maintains a corral of horses and offers rides for all skill levels.) The two-mile hike ends in an array of steam vents and boiling mud pots. Deposits of sulfur coat the rocks and the air is filled with steam. Yes, there is a strong smell, described to us in advanced by two little boys on the trail: "It's really stinky up there!" This is just one of a number of hiking destinations and the ranch even keeps a canoe at one of the nearby lakes - but you have to take advantage of that early in the season. The lakes are formed by snow melt and evaporate by the end of summer.

When we returned to the ranch, I poured myself a glass of cold lemonade that's available all afternoon outside the dining room. Then we explored the possibilities the ranch offers for the most essential of vacation activities: doing NOTHING. A covered porch offers comfortable seating and a shady place to rest. There's a hammock hanging above a circle of wild trillium. My favorite place was the bench swing on the edge of the meadow where the deer came to graze. And of course, there's a pool for lazy soaking and sunbathing.

It's not just any pool, though. It's fed by the hot springs up the valley. For over 100 years people have taken comfort in these healing waters.

Accommodations at Drakesbad are rustic but very clean and comfortable. Our room, paneled in knotty pine, had its own half bath, but for showers, we used the bathhouse down by the pool. A few of the cabins have full baths, and seasoned Drakesbad guests were heard to suggest that taking such a cabin would be "copping out" on the Drakesbad way of life. Mind you, the same guests were heard to suggest that brushing your hair for dinner was also copping out.

Drakesbad is plenty kid friendly, with games and puzzles in the common lodge, a ping pong table, and a terrific tire swing in the shape of a pony. Even swimming pool toys are provided.

The dinner bell rings promptly at six, but there's no hurry. Show up any time before seven and you'll be fed, and fed well. We dined on tilapia and fresh vegetables, prepared with an Asian flair. Our hosts, Ed and Billie, made the rounds, welcoming the new guests and sharing pictures from previous years with the regulars. The youngster at our table bolted his food and rushed out to join the sunset horseback ride with the other kids while his mom enjoyed her meal at a more leisurely pace.

The kids returned as evening settled in around us. Dusk hours at Drakesbad are quiet but still social, with families playing board games in the lodge or sitting around the campfire. Drakesbad generously supplies the makings for s'Mores, but you'll want to get there quick if there are a lot of kids around - any that weren't on the ride had rushed to the campfire to build their own toasted marshmallow treats. The lights go out around 10 p.m., leaving you to the starlight and the glow of the kerosene lanterns. You can soak in the pool under the stars or curl up in the comfort of your room.

Breakfast follows the same routine as dinner, with a bell to let you know that it's time to fuel up for the day. We had 'scrambles' just the way I like them (and I'm fussy about my eggs!). Ed poured hot chocolate for our young table mate with the flair of the finest of European maitre 'ds. The sack lunches, ordered at dinner the night before were stacked on the stairs, ready for hikers and riders.

Lots of goodbyes get exchanged at breakfast, along with email addresses, promises to write, and invitations to meet. Billie and Ed leave handwritten notes for the guests, thanking them for their stay and inviting them to return.

Drakesbad Lodge is a magical and beautiful place, where every guest is looked after like a friend. Every detail is designed to make you feel as though Drakesbad is really home for the time you're there. The guests are positively romantic about the place. As we tossed the luggage in the car, we were wished a safe journey by a woman we'd met at the pool the afternoon before. She's been coming to Drakesbad every summer for 35 years. "Hope to see you again next year," she said to us, as though Drakesbad was hers.

Click Logo for Website Warner Valley Road Chester, CA 96020 530/529-9820 Fax: 530/529-4511

The ranch is the only overnight accommodations within the park. The ranch offers 4 small, 1-room cabins and bungalows in an alpine meadow setting. The cabins and bungalows all come with half-bath, and meals for 2, included in the price.. The lodge has 15 rooms, with half-baths and 3 meals, with prices based on room size. There is a hotsprings swimming pool, and horseback riding. The ranch also has a pool, food service, and laundry. The ranch is open June - October. Reservations required.

Bring a swimsuit and sturdy shoes for hiking and horseback riding. A good flashlight is useful for finding your way around after dark as the generators are shut down "right after we run the last load of dishes in the dishwasher."

Expect cool evenings and sunny dry days during the summer, but remember that the weather in the mountains can be unpredictable.

Drakesbad will accommodate your dietary needs, just be sure to let them know before you arrive.

You can schedule just about any activity that Drakesbad offers - from guided fly fishing to horseback riding - by signing up at the lodge.

Make your reservations well in advance. Drakesbad is very popular in high summer. For a quieter (read, "less kids") vacation, try off-season, either in very early June or after September.

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